I believe some additional information is necessary to understand what HAND SHAKE MODELS model kits are. And if you came all the way down here, maybe you are curious aboit it.

All my models are original designs, although they draw inspiration from various sources, including science fiction designs in all their forms, concept art, military vehicles, industrial machinery and anything that catches my attention.

The entire design and development of the models are done completely manually—no 3D design or 3D printing, except for a few parts featuring the HAND SHAKE MODELS logo that I allowed myself to include in my latest model. And of course, completely away from AI. The construction of the prototype is based on styrene plastic and epoxy putty, manual tools, and all the modelling techniques I am able to imply, including using kitbashing and trashbashing pieces that are properly adapted and modified. I really do not like to work with PVC plastic so I tend to mold and resin cast every PVC part that take my attention and then work with the resin reproduction. I love taking everyday objects and transforming them into something completely different in form and purpose.

Everything begins with a concept or a design idea, which I immediately sketch out in plastic or other disposable materials to help me shape the concept. I am incredibly unskilled at drawing, so I don’t use plans or sketches. The process is obviously slow, but it is the methodology that works for me as an artist. The model is built piece by piece, with each part needing to fit together in a proper way. Keep in mind that CA glue, needed for resin working, allow nearly non re-positioning of he parts, so everything must fit. All parts must also be designed in a way that makes them reproducible through polyurethane resin casting. I am fully aware that not only will the completed model be scrutinized, but the modeler will also examine each piece individually. Every part must be almost a model in itself.

An almost obsessive goal of mine is always to minimize or even eliminate those dreaded mold lines or hard-to-reach areas where bubbles might form during the casting process. I also strive to reduce the number of pieces to the bare minimum so the assembly process does not become overly tedious. I had never built a resin model before, but I had always heard that such kits were not well-received by many modelers. I needed to refine all these details to ensure the kits would be enjoyable to build and customize.

Next, I make a mold for each prototype piece, and subsequent reproductions are done by resin casting. Each piece has a sprue through which the resin is poured and this must be removed by the modeller using the appropriate tools. With the first reproduction of the complete model, I create an inventory and an instruction manual, photographing each step as I assemble the model. I then add some wiring (included in the kits) as a suggestion for detalling and customization.

I have a habit, which has almost become a brand signature, of not painting my models. All the photos you see on this website are of those first reproduction models, primed in white with a light black wash to highlight the details better. I prefer to present them in this neutral state for two main reasons. First, I don’t want to hide any construction or reproduction defects. What you see is what you get. Second, I’ve always believed that presenting the models unpainted allows each modeler to create their own artistic interpretation more freely, without being influenced by my choices. I love seeing how other creative modelers take different approaches with my models—ideas that I would never have imagined.

The final step is packaging and creating an art box. The entire casting and boxing process for each model is done by me, ensuring better quality control as I take full responsibility for the process. I don’t maintain any stock of models and each kit is produced to order. Production and shipping times vary depending on the time I have available.

In a way, everything beyond the actual construction of the model itself is secondary. I like to keep everything as simple as possible so that the model, the design, and the pieces themselves are the only things that truly matter.